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Modifications

-Engine-

2.25" Exhaust

My exhaust is 2.25" mandrel bent piping from the manifold back. I have an Xtreme Flo Cat and a Dynomax Ultraflo Muffler with a Hooker Dual Slash Tip. I haven't been to the track yet with the new exhaust, I'd guess gains at a good 8 hp, this is a conservative estimate. I won't get a good idea on the real gains until I go to the track (Now I have, I saw a .2 sec drop in my ET with the exhaust and TB) . I have $350 invested in it, I did all the work myself. I am very happy with the sound and gains that I can "feel", this would be a great mod for anyone to do.

Street Arsenal Throttle Body

Street Arsenal makes some fairly decent performance parts for GM motors, for instance underdrive pullies, ported intake manifolds, performance heads, and adjustable fuel pressure regulators. They claim 5 to 8 hp on the throttle body, I'm guessing about 3 to 4 hp gain in the mid range, there wasn't much of a difference at higher revs. I didn't lose any low end torque either. For $100, its worth it. Also, recheck your work when you are installing parts. I disconnected a emission line and it wouldn't idle correctly, but past 2,000 rpm it would run fine.

RSM Racing Intake

This intake includes a stainless bend, two blue plastic adpaters, four stainless clamps, and a K&N Cone Filter. The blue tubes and stainless piping went from the throttle body to the mass air flow sensor, and the K&N Cone Filter clamped on the mass air flow sensor. It was a very simple install job. Just remove stock airbox, put it on piece by piece, and plug in sensors. This made the engine breathe a lot easier at higher rpm, and the engine gain a nice whistle at mid to high revs. At the top of second, the car pulls a lot stronger. The best my car has ran in the quarter with just the intake is 16.08 seconds at 84.28 mph. This is a great starting point, as most 3100 Beretta Bases run in the 16.3-16.4 range. I also picked up a couple miles per gallon too.

Fast Forward Performance Under Drive Pulley

Currently, this is my best performance mod, made nice power at high revs, without hurting the performance of the accesories at cruising speeds.This made a soild 5 hp on a 3.1L 5 speed Beretta, the dyno chart is here. Not bad, eh? This is a very simple install, I rented a puller from a local auto parts store and did it in a parking lot with basic hand tools. For the 3100/3400, there is a ring that is pressed into the back of the pulley, this needs to be epoxyed in place, other wise it walks out and will cut the wire to the crank shaft position sensor.

Fast Forward Performance Dogbone

This is another simple, effective part from Fast Forward Performance. Makes a noticeable difference in shift firmness and launching. Well worth the money. Your halfway to getting this on when you put on there underdrive pulley.

RK Sport Upper Motor Mount Insert

This has to be removed to to get the new belt around for the pulley, so this is another "might-as-well" mod. Plus its only $20 or so. It fits around the stock mount, doesn't replace anything, expect surround the stock mount.

-Brakes and Suspension-

Monroe Sensa-Trac Struts/Shocks

Not bad for an O.E. replacement, with stock springs, but with Eibach springs they are way underdampened. KYBs will be replacing this in the future.

Addco Rear Sway Bar

GM Strut Tower Brace

This a very cheap and fairly effective mod, $25 new from GM. Do not buy one from an aftermarket company, they are just resold GM ones.

Eibach Springs

This springs are great. A world of difference compared to the stock FE1 springs. I thought the ride would suffer, but beings that Eibachs are progressive rate the ride is very similar to that of the base springs. I can't say much about this springs because of the very tall sidewall, in a corner the tires roll over onto the sidewall very easyily. I'm planning on getting 16" rims and tires this spring, more on that in the future modifications section.

Performance Friction Pads

I had a warped rotor, and it was bugging me, so I decided to replace them. I thought about going to a cross-drilled rotor, because they tend to cool easier. But, even a cross drilled rotor gets hot, and they warp easier than the stock ones. Due to the lesser amount of metal in the rotor. So I decided to just go with stock rotors, besides they are cheap, $35 for the pair, so if I warp another set, no big deal. I also looked into getting a better pad that would take the heat. I did some talking and people recommened Performance Friction or EBC Green Stuff. The Performance Friction Pads are very well priced, $36 at Auto Zone. The pads need a good deal of time to be fully broken in. So to speed this process up I went out and did several firm braking runs from 60. Between each run I drove a mile or so to give the rotors time to cool. This seemed to work well.

-Tires-

Dunlop SP Sport A2

I bought these tires from The Tire Rack for $48. This is very cheap. They beat the best price in town by $15 a wheel. So far these tires are by far better than the General AmeriG4S that I had on before. Last time at the track, my 60' times sucked, my times with just the intake where by far better. I haven't been to the track with them yet, but according to a G-Tec, my 1/4 time has increased. I kept the stock size of 195/70R14 with the stock rims.

I've got about 5,000 miles on the tires now, the first half of the tread last a mere 1,500 miles. A quick call to the Tire Rack and I find that they are a dual compound tread and they are doing exactly what they should. These tires have an extremely high treadware rating of 420, I don't see this tires making it past 15,000 miles.

-Stereo-

Sony Xplod 6x9s

Kenwood 4x6s

JVC KV-650 Head Unit

-Other-

Z26 Spoiler

Z26 Cluster

MSI Speed Indiglo White Face Gauges

Gran Prix Shift Knob